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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    2

    Default TWP, IPE black mold, John H?

    New to the forum, did an IPE deck 6 years ago, since day one TWP116 oil based, looked great first few years. Stained every spring,(needed it, stain faded bad unless under Gazebo) after washing deck (tsp and bleach) and scuff sanding whole deck. Did 2 coats stain. Late in season black mold appears last few years, causes me to do MORE sanding and washing, and restain following spring each year. Now, spring is here I look out and I see black! Thinking I need a better cleaning, stain change?
    Any and all comments appreciated. Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Shamong, NJ
    Posts
    6

    Default Re: TWP, IPE black mold, John H?

    Sounds like the product is not getting into the wood. When this happens the oil can become a food source for mold and mildew. This can be happening for a couple of reasons. The first is that you may have a build up of the stain from previous coats which is causing a barrier that the new coating can not penetrate leaving the product close to the surface. The second is the sanding, when you sand you change the surface of the wood and you should not stain or seal immediately after sanding. Allow the wood to "weather" for a week and then apply your coating and you will get better results. Thirdly, the application should be applied wet-on-wet or back brushed while wet. If any of the coating dries and you go over it again the sealer will repel itself and once again the product will not get into the wood and sit closer to the surface as a food source for the mold and mildew. I have never seen an Ipe deck that needs to be sanded unless something has happened. To clean these decks it best to use a VERY diluted stripper (sodium hydroxide based) as a cleaner. The wood will come out more evenly than using bleach as a cleaner. It also will help insure that there will be no barrier on the next coating. When we restore Ipe decks we usually use a garden hose for maintenance (repeat) coats. If we use a pressure washer it is usually when stripping of a coating. When using our method you never have to sand unless it is the first time we worked on the deck to correct a preexisting condition. On most woods your solution works well as a cleaner prior to re-coating, from experience though not with Ipe. In regards to the stain there are a few good ones out there but usually the issues are in the prep and application. Regardless, on Ipe you will be re-coating more frequently.
    Everett Abrams
    Deck Restoration Plus 866-440-DECK(3325)
    www.deckrestorationplus.com
    Contractors Foundation866-621-7511
    contractorsfoundation.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma City
    Posts
    121

    Default Re: TWP, IPE black mold, John H?

    Sigh....It is so good for the soul to be asked for by name. Almost makes all the years posting worth while.

    TSP and Bleach is the problem. Real bad idea and impossible it seems to get it off the web. Further futile effort trying to stop some finish outfits from regurgiteting this this long outdated ice age thinking. Almost as bad as linseed oil.

    Puting on twp over a worn out Ipe surface with out a brightner (oxalic ) will result in a dark look. Sanding alone will not help the effort in fact it will just drive the problem into the wood's surface.

    If you continue this same procedure you will get the same results.

    Solution !!! www.woodrich-brand.com You might not need the md80. Try the two part system the brightner is buffered oxalic. Scrubing will be necessary. The site has a good area to ask questions and get quick good info. Tell them I sent you and they will charge you twice.

    WR sells a twp clone that is not bad at all I would use it but there is a twp plant 20 miles from my house that equals $25 a gal. Any way it's not the finish it's the wrong prep.

    Jon Mon www.deckmastersllc.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: TWP, IPE black mold, John H?

    Hi John,

    You you are the deck man! You have not led me wrong since hooking me up with George at East Teak!

    Ok, No bleach, No tsp this year.


    I assume I need to do the two part, firts sodium perb, followed up by an oxalic acid wash/ scrub,? do I have this right?

    Sand before or after the chemical treat?

    added question: Will deck brighter attack the aluminum poles w/ black finish on the deckorator railing

    Thanks, Dave

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Shamong, NJ
    Posts
    6

    Default Re: TWP, IPE black mold, John H?

    Percarbonate Bleach is still bleach w/o the chlorine and is still ineffective in preparing an Ipe surface. I would not post something that was not from much experience and knowledge. Sanding would be done after the cleaning but you should NOT have to keep sanding the deck if the cleaning part is done correctly. There are also much better products out there for Ipe in regards to sealers, in my opinion. Feel free to contact me in regards to my post or how to restore Ipe.
    Everett Abrams
    Deck Restoration Plus 866-440-DECK(3325)
    www.deckrestorationplus.com
    Contractors Foundation866-621-7511
    contractorsfoundation.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma City
    Posts
    121

    Default Re: TWP, IPE black mold, John H?

    Hey Dave, George and East Teak are hard to beat that's for sure.

    And Hi Ya Everett it's so good to talk to a real Pro! Damm I wish I was one like you.

    Dave the WoodRich EFC-38 is a mild critic base cleaner the Citralic ( buffered oxalic ) is a brightner neutralizer. The md80 is a stripper and some rough stuff a person would only use it as a last resort and not needed with your deck that already has a base coat of twp on it.

    When we refinish a deck like yours,usually one of my past wallets, I dont use the cleaner because normaly there are no stains on them like oil from an outdoor cooker,pools of suntan lotion, ya know things like that. We use a 14'' floor machine,a buffer, with a red scurb pad for the floor and hand brushes for the rail/skirting.

    I buy the oxalic crystal in 50 lb bags $30 or so. Anyway we just use the oxalic mixed with water in a gal bucket and scrub the dickens out of the wood. Oxalic is not a cleaner but using it along with scrubing does the trick. The idea is to not try and take the base coats off just clean up the outside. All the sanding is done after the prep.

    Use a lot of water spraying off everything that comes off this is real important. After it dries some little whiskers might come up from this process. With ipe that happens a lot but it's no big deal just use the orbital /80 grit pads. I pay attention to the cap rail because of the personal contact. After that your ready for the finish.

    I have never had the oxalic eat into the alum pipe but we dont give it a chance to. The oxalic does it's job on contact so really you can spray it off right away after the scrub.

    It might not look like it after your done with the prep but the base coat of twp is still in there. After two coats of twp or the woodrich it will take a while to set up but both those finishes will melt into the base. After that you wont have to sand again when its time to refinish usually I get 3 years out of a process like that.

    If you really want to get at it use a fine grit on the cap rail,I have gone down to 320 before, smooth as glass.

    Go Get Em !! JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com

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